1. Carburetor,
2. In-line fuel filter,
3. Fuel by-pass reservoir,
4. Electric fuel pump,
5. 82 litre polyethylene fuel tank with fuel strainer mounted at the rear of the vehicle,
6. Fuel tank sending unit.

1. Single barrel, down-draft with a thermochoke,
2. Vacuum-controlled, part load enrichment device,
3. Cold start enrichment tube,
4. Idle fuel/air cutoff valve (electrically operated),
5. Idling and acceleration circuits.

1. Ensure the battery master switch is off.
2. Remove the air inlet hose from the carburetor to the air cleaner.
3. Remove the breather hose from the valve cover.
4. Remove the two spring clips that position the accelerator cable in the bracket, see Figure 2-1-1.

1. See Figure 2-1-3 and disassemble the carburetor into sub-assemblies:

1. Place the top, body, choke housing and cover, accelerator pump shaft and lever in a wire basket and submerge in a carburetor cleaning solution.
2. Inspect the float for leakage and for wear at the needle valve contact point.
3. Clean and inspect the intermediate flange for damage. Ensure the rubber has not deteriorated.
4. Clean and inspect the jets and ensure the passages are clear.
5. Remove the “O” ring seals from the CO adjusting screw, the idle adjusting screw and the pump injection tube.
6. Clean and inspect the adjusting screws to ensure their tapered ends are not damaged and ensure the opening through the injection tube is clear.
7. Apply suction to the pulldown hose to check the operation of the diaphragm.
8. Remove the parts from the cleaning solution and blow dry with compressed air. Ensure all passages are clear.

1. See Figure 2-1-5 and assemble the top half of the carburetor, using the carburetor kit:

1. Ensure the carburetor and intake manifold mounting surfaces are smooth and free of nicks and cuts.
2. Remove the covering from the intake manifold opening.
3. Place the carburetor on the intake manifold ensuring the side of the carburetor with the cutoff valve is nearest the valve cover.
4. Install the four cap screws, ensuring the ground wire is attached to the cap screw under the cutoff valve.
5. Tighten the four cap screws.
6. Connect the fuel line to the carburetor.
7. Connect the vacuum advance line to the carburetor.
8. Connect the electrical lead to the cutoff valve terminal.
9. Push the choke cable, casing and hose through the bracket until the hose protrudes slightly past the bracket to ensure the clamp will hold the casing and tighten the screw.
10. Insert the choke cable through the control arm at the carburetor.
11. With the choke fully open and the choke control knob at the dash pushed fully in, tighten the screw on the control lever. Ensure the choke opens and closes completely.
12. Push the accelerator cable and casing with the grommet through the accelerator cable bracket. Place the cable tip in the socket of the sector plate and install the clip on the cam.

1. Ensure the battery master switch is off.
2. Tag fuel lines to ensure correct installation.
3. Place a container under the filter to collect any fuel spillage.
4. Disconnect the fuel inlet, outlet and return lines at the fuel filter.
5. Remove the screws, flat washers and the self-locking nuts which secure the fuel filter to the inner fender well and remove the filter assembly.

1. Install the fuel filter to the inner fender well and secure using the previously removed screws, washers and new selflocking nuts.
2. Install and secure the fuel inlet, outlet and return lines to the correct locations on the filter.
3. Remove the container and turn on the battery master switch.
4. Turn the ignition switch 'ON' or start the engine and check for leaks.

1. Turn off the battery master switch.
2. Support the weight of the vehicle and remove the right rear wheel.
3. Remove the fuel tank protection plate.
4. Wrap a rag around the outlet hose at a point near the tank and squeeze the hose closed with vise-grips.
5. Place a drain pan under the fuel pump. Remove the banjo bolts from the top and bottom of the pump and remove the two copper washers from each hose fitting.
6. Disconnect the electrical wire from the pump.
7. Remove the cap screw, washer and the ground wire from the pump bracket.
8. Remove the two elastic nuts and washers and remove the pump and bracket.
9. Remove the pump from the bracket.
10. Check the two rubber mounts on the vehicle for serviceability. If necessary, unscrew the mounts and install new mounts.

1. Place the pump on the bracket, ensuring the pump outlet is at the top. Install two cap screws and flat washers and torque to 10 N•m (7 ft lb).
2. Place the pump bracket on the rubber mounts and install two flat washers and two new elastic nuts. Do not twist the rubber mounts excessively.
3. Install the ground wire to the pump bracket with a cap screw and starwasher. Ensure there is a clean electrical connection.

1. Disconnect the battery ground lead.
2. Tilt the rear seats forward.
3. Remove the five floor panels.
4. Remove the four floor panel rails and note the location of the spacer pads and long cap screws.

1. Clean the surface of the tank.
2. Inspect the tank retaining straps and protection strips and replace if damaged.
3. Ensure the tank openings are covered.
4. Lower the tank onto the vehicle frame and ensure the tank filler neck fits under the left fender well.
5. Remove the protective covering from the filler neck.
6. Inspect the filler neck rubber hose and gasket for damage and replace if necessary.
7. Install the filler neck and gasket to the rear of the vehicle with the four cap screws and lock washers.
8. Slide the rubber hose down over the tank filler neck and tighten the hose clamps.
9. Install the vent hose and clamp on top of the tank.
10. Connect electrical wire #28 to the positive terminal of the sending unit and #90E to the negative, terminal.
11. Install the return line on the sending unit.
12. Install the retaining straps on the tank. Ensure the protection strips are in place, and install a strap bolt and pin in each strap.
13. Install a new or cleaned strainer in the tank outlet.
14. Install the outlet line.
15. Partially fill the tank with gasoline and inspect the tank connections for leaks.
16. Connect the battery ground cable and check that the sending unit is operating correctly.
17. Install the protection plate.
18. Apply a coat of sealant around the access plate opening and install the access plate.
19. Install the rear floor panels and rails (refer to Part 6, Section 2), ensuring the spacer pads and the long bolts are positioned correctly.
20. Install the rear seat belt securing bolt to the fender well panel.

1. Disconnect the battery ground lead.
2. Tilt the rear seats forward.
3. Remove the centre floor panel.
4. Remove the four cap screws from the sending unit access plate and remove the plate.
5. Clean the area around the sending unit.
6. Remove the return line from the sending unit.
7. Disconnect electrical wire #28 and #90E from the sending unit terminals.

1. Install a new gasket on the sending unit.
2. Install the sending unit into the tank, ensuring the inlet on the sending unit points toward the front of the vehicle.

1. Remove the fuel tank protection plate.
2. Remove the outlet hose and drain the gasoline into a suitable container.

1. Clean the strainer with compressed air.
2. Install the strainer into the tank outlet.
3. Install the outlet hose.
4. Fill the tank with gasoline and check for leaks.
5. Install the fuel tank protection plate.

1. Clean around the fuel tank filler neck.
2. Loosen the hose clamps on the filler neck connecting hose and slide the hose up the filler neck and off the tank. Cover the tank opening.
3. Remove the tank vent hose from the filler neck.
4. Remove the four cap screws, lock and flat washers from the filler neck plate.
5. Remove the filler neck.

1. Inspect the filler neck connecting hose for damage and replace, if necessary.
2. Inspect the filler neck gasket for damage and replace, if necessary.

1. Install the filler neck to the rear of the vehicle with four cap screws, lock and flat washers.
2. Uncover the tank inlet and install the filler neck connecting hose.
3. Install the tank vent line to the filler neck.
4. Secure the clamps.

1. Remove the clip from the cam of the throttle linkage and disconnect the cable tip from the cam.
2. Remove the two spring clips on each side of the rubber grommet at the accelerator cable mounting bracket and pull the grommet and cable out of the bracket.
3. Disconnect the securing clip at the bracket on the valve cover and remove the clip from the cable.
4. Disconnect the cable from the accelerator pedal arm by pulling up on the cable.
5. Pull the cable and casing from the grommet in the firewall and pry the grommet from the firewall.
6. Pull the accelerator cable through the firewall into the engine compartment.

1. Insert the pedal end of the accelerator cable through the firewall.
2. Push the grommet on the cable and into the hole in the firewall.
3. Push the cable and casing into the grommet.
4. Connect the end of the cable to the end of the accelerator pedal arm.
5. Insert the rubber grommet on the cable into the cable bracket, place the cable tip in the cam of the sector plate, and install the clip on the cam.
6. Adjust the accelerator cable until there is a maximum clearance of 1 mm between the throttle sector plate and the stop with the accelerator pedal in the full-throttle position, see Figure 2-1-10, and install a spring clip on each side of the accelerator cable bracket.
7. Check the clearance between the throttle sector plate and stop a second time with the accelerator pedal in the fullthrottle position. Adjust the clearance, if necessary.
8. Install the cable securing clip on the bracket on the valve cover.

1. Disconnect the cable at the choke lever.
2. Pull the cable through the casing and dash.

1. Insert the cable through the dash and casing.
2. Insert the cable through the choke lever.
3. Ensure the choke lever is fully open and the knob is pushed all the way in. Tighten the screw on the lever.

1. Remove the choke control cable.
2. Loosen the casing clamp at the carburetor and remove the casing.
3. Disconnect the casing from the clip on the high tension (HT) cable.
4. Remove the rubber protection hose from the casing.
5. Remove the grommet from the firewall and remove the casing.
6. Remove the switch panel from the dash.
7. Squeeze the grommet on the casing behind the dash and pull the casing and grommet through the dash.

1. Insert the casing and grommet into the dash until the grommet is flush with the dash.
2. Push the casing through the firewall.
3. Install the grommet onto the casing and insert it into the firewall.
4. Install the rubber protection hose over the casing.
5. Insert the casing into the clamp on the carburetor.
6. Ensure the casing protrudes slightly past the bracket to ensure the clamp will hold the casing and tighten the clamp.
7. Connect the clip from the HT cable onto the casing.
8. Install the choke cable and ensure the choke opens and closes completely.
9. Install the switch panel to the dash.

1. Loosen the screw on the cable stop and remove the stop.
2. Pull the cable through the dash.

1. Insert the cable into the dash.
2. Pull the cable fully into the dash while feeding the end of the cable through the stop bracket on the firewall.
3. With the bracket tilted away from the firewall, install the stop on the cable against the bracket.
4. Tighten the screw on the stop.

1. air intake grille,
2. Dynacell dry type air filter with moisture separator,
3. air intake temperature regulator box,
4. coolant heated aluminum intake manifold,
5. intake valves,
6. air ducts and hoses.

1. exhaust valves,
2. cast iron exhaust manifold,
3. exhaust pipe,
4. heat stove,
5. muffler,
6. tail pipe,
7. heat shields and hangers.

1. Remove the two screws from the air intake regulator box and the filter housing.
2. Loosen the clamp from the air intake duct hose.
3. Remove the preheat hose from the regulator box.
4. Pull the hose clear of the inlet duct and withdraw the regulator box from the air cleaner assembly.

1. Place the end of the regulator box under warm tap water. The valve in the regulator box should open.
2. Place the end of the regulator box under cold tap water. The valve in the regulator box should close.
3. Replace the sensor, if the valve does not operate correctly.

1. Insert the end of the air intake regulator box into the air cleaner assembly and install the two screws.
2. Install the intake hose on the duct.
3. Install the preheat hose on the regulator box.

1. Carefully remove the plastic protector from the sensor.
2. Remove the nut from the sensor and remove the sensor from the regulator box.
3. Install a new sensor in the regulator box and install the nut.
4. Carefully install the plastic protector on the new sensor.

1. Remove the air intake regulator box.
2. Disconnect the preheat hose from the air intake duct.
3. Remove the four nuts from the duct and remove the duct from the firewall.

1. Place the duct on the mounting studs on the firewall and install the four nuts.
2. Connect the preheat hose.
3. Install the air intake regulator box.

1. Loosen the two locking nuts on the air cleaner clamping strap and remove the strap.
2. Pull up on the top front of the filter element.
3. Remove the element from the housing.
4. Remove the two screws and pull the air intake regulator box from the filter housing.
5. Remove the distributor ventilation hose from the fitting on the filter housing.
6. Remove the carburetor air intake hose at the filter housing.

1. Install the filter housing on the mounting studs and install the four nuts.
2. Install the end of the regulator box into the filter housing, ensuring the bolt holes are aligned and install the two screws.
3. Install the distributor ventilation hose to the fitting on the filter housing.
4. Install the carburetor air intake hose to the filter housing.
5. Reinstall the filter element with the open end against the gasketed surface of the housing. Push the element forward and downward until the gasket seats squarely against the sealing surface of the housing.

1. Remove the carburetor (refer to Section 1).
2. Remove the brake servo vacuum line.
3. Remove both coolant hoses from the manifold and place in a high position to avoid loss of coolant.

1. Using a straight edge, check the mating surfaces of the manifold for distortion.
2. Clean around the ports and ensure the mating surfaces are smooth.

1. Install a new gasket on the manifold ports and place the manifold on the cylinder head.
2. Install a cap screw at each end to hold the gasket and manifold to the cylinder head and install the four remaining cap screws ensuring the gasket does not slip. Torque to 25 N•m (18 ft lb).
3. Swing the intake/exhaust manifold bracket into position and install the cap screw. Torque the cap screw to 20 N•m (15 ft lb) and the nut to 25 N•m (18 ft lb).
4. Install the coolant hose from the rear of the cylinder head to the bottom coolant opening on the manifold.
5. Install the other coolant hose to the top coolant opening.
6. Install the brake servo hose to the intake manifold.
7. Install the carburetor (refer to Section 1).

1. Remove the six nuts securing the exhaust pipe to the manifold.
2. Pull the exhaust pipe away from the manifold and remove the gasket.
3. Remove the eight nuts and flat washers from the manifold.
4. Remove the cap screw from the intake/exhaust manifold bracket.
5. Loosen the nut on the exhaust manifold and swing the bracket out of the way.
6. Remove the manifold and four gaskets.

1. Inspect the manifold for cracks.
2. Using a straight edge, check the mounting surfaces for distortion. If necessary, surface grind until flat.

1. Install new gaskets and manifold on the cylinder head, ensuring the gaskets are correctly positioned.
2. Install eight nuts and flat washers and torque to 25 N•m (18 ft lb).
3. Swing the exhaust manifold bracket into position.
4. Install a cap screw through the bracket and into the intake manifold and torque to 20 N•m (15 ft lb).
5. Torque the nut on the exhaust manifold bracket to 25 N•m (18 ft lb).
6. Install a new gasket on the exhaust pipe and fit the pipe to the manifold, ensuring the gasket is correctly positioned.
7. Install the six nuts and torque to 20 N•m (15 ft lb).

1. Remove the right front and right rear wheels.
2. Remove the six nuts securing the exhaust pipe to the manifold, lower the exhaust pipe and remove the gasket.
3. Remove the wishbone mounting bolts at the vehicle frame from the rear arm of the rear suspension, and the front arm of the front suspension.
4. Remove the wishbone mounting bolts and nuts at the front and rear ball joints.
5. Loosen the front and rear shock absorber lower mounting bolts.
6. Swing both wishbone arms down, clear of the vehicle frame, see Figure 2-2-3.
7. Remove the nut and bolt from the muffler hanger, see Figure 2-2-4.
8. Remove the three nuts, bolts and lock washers securing the exhaust pipe to the muffler locking collars.
9. Lower the exhaust pipe slightly and remove the two preheat hoses from the stove.
10. Remove the exhaust pipe.

1. Insert the tail pipe from the rear of the vehicle.
2. Place the muffler under the vehicle and install on the two corresponding rubber hangers.
3. Install a new gasket between the tail pipe and the muffler locking collars.
4. Slide the locking collars of the tail pipe and muffler together and install the three bolts and self-locking nuts, but do not tighten.
5. Hook the tail pipe to the two rubber hangers.
6. Insert the exhaust pipe from the front of the vehicle.
7. Install the two preheat hoses to the stove.
8. Install a new gasket on the exhaust manifold mounting studs and install the exhaust pipe to the manifold.
9. Install the muffler to the hanger using a nut and bolt, but do not tighten.
10. Install a nut to each of the exhaust manifold mounting studs, but do not tighten.
11. Place a new gasket between the exhaust pipe and muffler locking collars and secure with three bolts and selflocking nuts, but do not tighten.
12. Ensure there is sufficient clearance between exhaust components and body and that the rubber hangers are evenly stressed.
13. Tighten all exhaust system bolts and nuts.
14. Swing the wishbone arms into place. Install the mounting bolts at the vehicle frame, and torque to 150 N•m (111 ft lb).
15. Install the wishbone arm mounting bolts in the front and rear ball joints and torque to 200 N•m (148 ft lb).
16. Tighten the front and rear shock absorber lower mounting bolts and torque to 200 N•m (148 ft lb).
17. Install the wheels and torque to 175 N•m (129 ft lb).
18. Start the engine and check the exhaust system for leaks.

1. Turn off the battery master switch.
2. Remove the engine protection plate.
3. Remove the two bolts from the radiator guard.
4. Drain the cooling system (refer to Section 8).
5. Remove the breather hose from the radiator.
6. Remove the upper and lower coolant hoses from the radiator.
7. Remove the coolant return hose from the radiator.
8. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the two fan thermoswitches.
9. Remove the cap screw from the fan ground wires on the left fender well.
10. Remove the two self-locking nuts and washers securing radiator to the radiator mounting bracket.
11. Remove the two nuts and washers securing the top of the radiator to the grille.

1. Position the assembly, ensuring the two bottom radiator mounting bolts are aligned with the radiator mounting bracket holes.
2. Install the two nuts and washers securing the top of the radiator to the grille.
3. Install the two nuts and washers securing the bottom of the radiator to the mounting bracket.
4. Install the electrical wiring from the fans as follows:

1. Turn the battery master switch off.
2. Disconnect the fan ground leads from the left fender well panel.
3. Disconnect the wires from the thermoswitches.
4. Remove, through the holes in the radiator support bracket, the two cap screws at the bottom of the fan shroud.
5. Remove the three cap screws from the top of the shroud and lift out the fan assemblies.

1. Disconnect the electrical leads from the terminals on the fan motors.
2. Remove the three nuts from each fan and remove the fan assemblies from the shroud.
3. Straighten the lock tab on each fan.
4. Remove the left-hand threaded nuts from both motor shafts.
5. Remove the fans from the motor shafts.

1. Place the fans on the motor shafts and install a locking tab washer on each shaft with the two inner tabs of each washer aligned with the flats of each shaft.
2. Install the left-hand threaded nuts on both motor shafts and bend the lock tabs of the washers against the mounts.

1. Place the fan assemblies in the shroud and install three nuts on each assembly.
2. Connect wires #96C and #96B to the terminals of the right-hand motor and jumper wire from #96C to a stud.
3. Connect wires #96A and #96 to the terminals of the left-hand motor and jumper wire from #96 to a stud.
4. Install the fan assemblies on the radiator and secure the top of the shroud to the radiator with three cap screws.
5. Install through the holes in the radiator support bracket, two cap screws to secure the bottom of the shroud to the radiator.
6. Install the screws on the right side and bottom right corner of the shroud.
7. Connect the fan electrical connectors to the thermoswitches, ensuring leads #84 and #84A are connected to the top thermoswitch and leads #85 and #85A are connected to the bottom thermoswitch.
8. Connect the fan ground leads to the fender well panel.
9. Turn on the battery master switch.
10. Start the engine and ensure the fans operate.

1. Disconnect the wires from the thermoswitch and, using an insulated length of wire, bridge the two thermoswitch wires.
2. If the fan does not operate, check the wiring to the thermoswitch. If the fan operates, the thermoswitch is defective and must be replaced.

1. Turn off the battery master switch.
2. Drain the radiator (refer to Section 8).
3. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator.
4. Using a 30 mm wrench, hold the nut nearest the radiator that is on the thermoswitch and, using a 30 mm wrench, unscrew the thermoswitch from the radiator.

1. Place a new gasket on the new thermoswitch and install the thermoswitch in the radiator.
2. Connect the wires to the thermoswitch.
3. Connect the upper radiator hose to the radiator.
4. Add coolant to the expansion reservoir until the coolant is level with the arrow marked on the side of the expansion reservoir.
5. Turn on the battery master switch and start the engine.
6. Check for leaks in the cooling system and ensure the fans are operating.

1. Measure the thermostat to determine dimension A, see Figure 2-3-1. The distance should be not less than 31 mm. If the distance is greater than 31 mm, the valve is not closing completely.
2. Place the thermostat and a thermometer in water and heat the water.
3. When the thermostat starts to open, check the water temperature. The thermostat should begin to open at approximately 87°C (188°F) and should be fully open at approximately 102°C (215°F).

1. Remove the engine protection plate.
2. Drain the cooling system (refer to Section 8).
3. Loosen the three socket head screws on the coolant pump pulley.
4. Loosen the alternator mounting and adjusting bolts and remove the drive belts.
5. Remove the bolt, nut and lock washer from the lower timing belt cover at the corner of the coolant pump.
6. Remove the two coolant hoses at the pump.
7. Remove the four coolant pump cap screws and remove the pump and “O” ring.
8. Remove the three socket head screws and remove the pulley.

1. Remove the seven bolts and washers that secure the bearing housing of the pump to the housing, and remove the bearing housing and gasket.
2. Remove the two cap screws and washers securing the thermostat housing to the pump and remove the thermostat housing, thermostat and “O” ring.

1. If the pump seal was leaking or the bearing is seized or excessively worn, replace the bearing housing.
2. Place a new gasket on the housing and secure the bearing housing with the seven cap screws and washers. Tighten the cap screws a little at a time and torque to 10 N•m (7 ft lb).
3. Install a new “O” ring on the thermostat housing and install the thermostat and housing on the pump. Torque the cap screws to 10 N•m (7 ft lb).

1. Place the pulley on the new pump and install the three socket head cap screws but do not tighten.
2. Position the pump and “0” ring on the engine block and install the four cap screws with the two long cap screws in the two bottom mounting holes. Torque the four cap screws to 10 N•m (7 ft lb).
3. Ensure a thermostat has been installed. If a thermostat has not been installed, install a new thermostat (refer to Section 8).
4. Connect the three coolant hoses to the pump.
5. Install the bolt, lock washer and nut in the lower timing belt cover at the coolant pump.
6. Install the drive belts and adjust belt deflection to 15 mm.
7. Torque the three pulley socket head screws to 20 N•m (15 ft lb).
8. Fill the cooling system (refer to Section 8).
9. Check for leaks.
10. Install the engine protection plate.

1. Remove the breather hose from the top of the reservoir.
2. Remove the three cap screws and flat washers that secure the reservoir to the fender well panel.
3. Turn the reservoir upside-down and remove the hose from the bottom of the reservoir, ensuring the end of the hose is kept upright to prevent the coolant from draining.
4. Drain the coolant from the expansion reservoir.

1. Install the lower radiator hose to the bottom of the reservoir.
2. Install the breather hose to the top of the reservoir.
3. Place the reservoir on the fender well panel and install the three cap screws and flat washers, ensuring the longest cap screw is installed at the rear of the reservoir.
4. Add coolant to the reservoir to top up the system.

1. Turn off the battery master switch.
2. Remove the cap from the expansion reservoir.
3. Remove the speedometer head cover.
4. Remove the defroster duct (refer to Part 6, Section 2).

1. Remove the two screws on the left side of the heater core.
2. Remove the core from the assembly.
3. Remove the screw from the fan at the motor shaft.
4. Remove the fan blade.

1. Insert the wire and then the motor into the fan housing.
2. Attach the suppressor and ground cable.

1. Position the heater under the dash and install the retaining strap bolt and nut.
2. Connect the 3-pronged electrical plug to the terminal at the back of the heater assembly.
3. Install the control valve on the heater.
4. Connect the heater hose to the heater.
5. Top up the cooling system (refer to Section 8).
6. Install the cap on the expansion reservoir.
7. Install the defroster duct (refer to Part 6, Section 2).
8. Install the speedometer head cover.

1. Drain the cooling system (refer to Section 8).
2. Disconnect the electrical plug from the block heater.
3. Loosen and unscrew the heater retaining screw to the limit of its travel.
4. Withdraw the heater from the frost plug opening of the cylinder block.

1. Clean the frost plug opening.
2. Apply a light coat of grease to the opening. Do not use gasket sealer.
3. Install the block heater, with its element pointing to 6 o'clock, into the right front frost plug opening of the block. Ensure that the heater is fully seated against the block.
4. Torque the retaining screw to 190 N•cm (17 in lb).
5. Verify that the heater is locked in position by attempting to pull it out of the frost plug opening with pliers.
6. Connect the electrical plug to the heater.
7. Fill the cooling system (refer to Section 8).
8. Pressure test the cooling system to test for leakage (refer to Section 8).
9. Test the heater by connecting it to 115 volts AC.

1. Drain the cooling system (refer to Section 8).
2. Remove the two hoses from the coolant outlet connector.
3. Remove the three capscrews and washers from the cylinder head and remove the connector and gasket.

1. Clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and coolant outlet connector.
2. Place a new gasket on the connector and install it to the cylinder head using the three capscrews and washers. Torque the capscrews to 10 N•m (7 ft lb).
3. Connect the two hoses to the connector and secure the clamps.
4. Fill the cooling system (refer to Section 8).
5. Pressure test the cooling system to test for leakage (refer to Section 8).

1. Drain the cooling system (refer to Section 8).
2. Remove the two hoses from the coolant connector.
3. Disconnect the two wires from the sending units on the connector.
4. Remove the two capscrews and washers from the cylinder head and remove the connector and gasket.

1. Clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and coolant connector.
2. Place a new gasket on the connector and install it to the cylinder head using the two capscrews and washers. Torque the capscrews to 10 N•m (7 ft lb).
3. Connect the two hoses to the connector and secure the clamps.
4. Connect wire #33 to the coolant temperature gauge sending unit on the left side of the coolant connector.
5. Connect wire #32 to the coolant temperature warning light sending unit on the centre of the coolant connector.
6. Fill the cooling system (refer to Section 8).
7. Pressure test the cooling system to test for leakage (refer to Section 8).
8. Verify that the temperature gauge is operating correctly.

1. A light-alloy oil pan that is finned on the outside to aid in cooling the oil in the sump.
2. A gear-type pump, which is driven by the distributor shaft, provides pressure to the system. The pump incorporates a pressure relief valve that directs oil to the sump if the pressure exceeds a predetermined setting.
3. An oil filter housing with a spin-on type oil filter and an oil temperature sending unit which activates the oil temperature warning light.
4. An oil pressure sending unit, mounted in the oil gallery at the rear of the cylinder head, that transmits oil pressure to a gauge on the dash.

1. Remove the engine protection plate.
2. Drain the oil from the oil pan.
3. Remove the power pack (refer to Section 7).
4. Separate the transaxle from the engine block (refer to Part 3, Section 1).

1. Position a new oil pan gasket on the engine block and install the oil pan.
2. Install the 20 oil pan cap screws and flat washers. The longest cap screw is installed in the left rear corner of the oil pan and requires a copper washer.
3. Torque all cap screws to 10 N•m (7 ft lb).
4. Install the flywheel to the crankshaft (refer to Section 6).
5. Install the clutch to the flywheel (refer to Part 3, Section 1).
6. Install the transaxle to the engine (refer to Part 3, Section 1).
7. Install the power pack (refer to Section 7).

1. Remove the oil pan from the engine block.
2. Remove the gasket from the engine block.
3. Clean the gasket surfaces of the oil pan and the engine block.
4. File smooth all rough areas on the gasket surfaces of the oil pan and engine block.

a. Place a new gasket on the surface of the engine block. b. Install the oil pan.

1. Remove the oil pan from the engine block.
2. Remove the two cap screws and flat washers from the bottom of the oil pump housing.
3. Withdraw the oil pump drive shaft from the engine block.
4. Inspect the oil pump drive shaft bushing and replace, if necessary.

1. Remove the two cap screws from the pick-up tube at the oil pump body and remove the pick-up tube.

1. Insert the oil pump drive shaft into the engine block and, if necessary, turn the oil pump slightly so that the lug on the top of the oil pump drive shaft seats in the slot in the bottom of the distributor drive shaft.

1. Disconnect the electrical wire from the oil temperature sending unit on the filter housing.
2. Using an oil filter wrench, remove the filter from the housing.
3. Remove the oil temperature sending unit and gasket from the housing.
4. Remove the three socket head screws and flat washers from the housing at the engine block and remove the housing and gasket.

1. Place a new gasket and the housing on the engine block and install the three socket head cap screws and flat washers. Torque to 20 N•m (15 ft lb).
2. Coat the gasket of a new filter with clean oil and install the filter into the housing by hand. Tighten the filter until the gasket contacts the housing and then turn an additional 3/4 turn.
3. Install the oil temperature sending unit and gasket on the housing and torque to 10 N•m (7 ft lb).
4. Connect wire #34 to the sending unit terminal.

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. Disconnect ignition wire #37B from starter terminal #15A and ignition starter button wire #74A from starter terminal #50.
3. Disconnect battery master switch wire #6 and alternator cables #2 from starter terminal #30.
4. Remove the socket head screw from the front starter bracket.

1. Disconnect the starter connector strap from the starter connector terminal on the solenoid.
2. Remove the three flat head screws from the solenoid and starter housing.
3. Turn and pull outward the drive pinion so that the solenoid plunger pull rod can be disengaged from the engaging fork and remove the solenoid.
4. Remove the two nuts and washers and remove the starter support bracket.
5. Remove the two slot head end cap screws and the end cap and gasket.
6. Remove the “C” clip and spacer washer from the end of the armature shaft.
7. Inspect the armature shaft for burrs near the “C” clip groove and using a file, remove all burrs.
8. Remove the through bolts and end plate.
9. Lift aside the brush springs and remove the positive brushes from the brush holder.

1. Inspect the bushing in the end plate. If the bushing is worn or damaged, press the bushing out and install a new bushing, using bushing installer VW 222a and a sleeve, see Figure 2-5-3.
2. Measure the length of the brushes. If the brushes are less than 13 mm long, replace the brushes. To replace the negative (–) brushes, replace the entire brush holder. If new brushes are available, unsolder the brush wires from the brush holder. Install the new brushes, soldering on their wires in place of the original wires. To replace the positive (+) brushes, replace the field coils with new field coils that have brushes attached. Alternatively, if new brushes are available, crush the old brushes in a vise, and solder the new brushes onto the original brush wires. Because the field coils are aluminium, the brush wires are welded to the field coils and cannot be detached.
3. Inspect the commutator for taper and uneven wear. Machine the commutator if taper or uneven wear is greater than 0.03 mm.

1. Apply a very light coat of molybdenum grease to the armature shaft.
2. Position the starter drive housing at a 45° angle and insert the starter drive gear into the housing.
3. Insert the armature shaft into the starter drive housing.
4. Install the stop ring on the armature shaft.
5. Install a new snap ring and with the stop ring supported on a press bed, press down on the armature shaft until the snap ring seats under the stop ring.
6. Install the field coil housing and brush holder and attach the positive brushes to the brush holder.
7. Install the end plate and through bolts and apply weatherproof sealer to the through bolts.
8. Install the spacer washers and “C” clip on the armature shaft.
9. Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between the “C” clip and spacer washers to determine the armature end play. End play should be 0.10 mm to 0.15 mm. If necessary, add or remove spacer washers until the end play is within the specified limits.
10. Install the end cap gasket.
11. Apply sealer to the two slot head end cap screws and install the end cap.
12. Install the starter support bracket.
13. Turn and pull outward the drive pinion so that the engaging fork moves far enough back to allow the solenoid plunger pull rod to engage the fork.
14. Install the starter solenoid and apply weatherproof sealer to the three slot head screws and the end of the solenoid that fits into the starter housing.
15. Connect the starter connector strap to the starter connector terminal on the solenoid.

1. Insert the end of the starter into the clutch housing ensuring the starter shaft engages in the bushing in the housing.
2. Insert the bottom bolt through the clutch housing and into the starter. Install a nut and washer and torque to 25 N•m (18 ft lb).
3. Insert the top and side bolts through the clutch housing and into the starter, install nuts and flat washers and torque to 25 N•m (18 ft lb).
4. Install the socket head screw for the front support bracket and torque to 45 N•m (33 ft lb).
5. Connect battery master switch cable #6 and alternator wires #2 to starter terminal #30.
6. Connect ignition wire #37B to starter terminal #15a and starter button wire #74A to terminal #50.
7. Connect the battery ground cable.

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. Disconnect wire #1 from the alternator regulator with a 3/8 in. wrench.
3. Disconnect wire #1D from the alternator regulator with a 1/4 in. wrench.
4. Disconnect both positive wires #2 from the alternator with a 1/2 in. wrench.
5. Disconnect negative wire #52 from the alternator with a 1/2 in. wrench.
6. Remove the bolt, lock washer and flat washer from the adjusting arm and remove the drive belts.
7. Swing the adjusting arm out of the way.

1. Hold the pulley (22) with a strap wrench and remove the shaft nut (19) and washer (20).
2. Remove the pulley, fan (23), woodruff key (21), and fan spacer (26).
3. Remove the nuts (1 and 45) from the negative alternator output terminal and the regulator terminal to free the copper jumper (44).
4. Remove the three screws (6) and lock washers from the terminal board and remove the diode trio (7).
5. Remove the nut (2) and lock washer (3) that secure the diode trio lead to the regulator (4).
6. Remove the nuts (47), lock washers (48), negative jumper (43) and sealing washers (49) and remove the regulator and brushes.
7. Remove the four screws (50) from the holder (51) and carefully remove the holder.

1. Carefully inspect all parts for wear, cracks, breakage or other mechanical defects and replace damaged parts with new ones as required.
2. To test the positive and negative rectifier assemblies, proceed as follows:

1. Replace the slip ring and bearing:

1. Place the alternator on the mounting bracket and insert the mounting bolt through the mounting bracket.
2. Install the nut on the bolt.
3. Swing down the alternator adjusting arm and loosely install the adjusting bolt, lock and flat washers.
4. Place the drive belts on the alternator pulley and adjust belt deflection to 15 mm.
5. Tighten the mounting bolt, nut and adjusting bolt.
6. Install the plastic plug in the upper timing belt cover.
7. Connect negative wire #52 to the alternator negative terminal with a 1/2 in. wrench.
8. Connect both positive wires #2 to the alternator positive terminal with a 1/2 in. wrench. Connect wire #1D to the alternator regulator terminal with a 1/4 in. wrench.
9. Connect wire #1 to the regulator D+ terminal of the alternator, with a 3/8 in. wrench.
10. Connect the battery ground cable.

1. Remove the alternator.
2. Remove the diode trio lead from the regulator terminal.
3. Remove the three screws that secure the diode trio and remove the diode trio.
4. Remove the two nuts at the bottom of the regulator and remove the negative jumper wire.
5. Carefully pull the regulator from the holder and remove the regulator.
6. Remove the brushes. If the brushes or springs are cracked, broken or burned, replace them. Measure the length of the brushes. If the brushes are less than 4.7 mm (3/16 in.) long, replace the brushes.

1. Insert the outer brush and spring assembly into the housing and compress the brush spring with a small screwdriver. While holding the spring compressed, insert a stiff piece of wire through the top hole in the rear of the housing so that the spring will be held in the compressed position.
2. Install and compress the second brush and spring and push the wire further into the brush housing to hold the second brush in the compressed position also.
3. Carefully push the regulator into the brush housing until the regulator contacts the brushes. Ensure a screw goes through the negative jumper.
4. Install the lock washers and nuts and hand tighten.

1. Ensure the battery master switch is off.
2. Disconnect the spark plug and coil HT cables from the distributor cap.

1. Remove the fibre washer and rubber “O” ring from the bottom of the distributor housing.
2. Loosen the three screws on the distributor cap and remove the cap.
3. Remove the rubber seal from the groove in the top of the distributor housing.
4. Remove the speed limiting rotor from the distributor shaft.
5. Remove the two screws from the vacuum advance unit on the distributor and remove the unit.
6. Remove the four screws from the TCI connector on the distributor and remove the connector and gasket.
7. Remove the circlip above the trigger wheel.

1. Assemble the distributor shaft and centrifugal advance assembly:

1. Remove the timing plug from the flywheel housing.

1. Ensure the battery master switch is off.
2. Disconnect the spark plug and coil HT cables from the distributor cap.
3. Loosen the three cap screws and washers and remove the cap.

1. Inspect the cap for cracks and carbon tracking and replace, if necessary.
2. Clean the carbon from the cap contacts.
3. Inspect the cap contacts for wear and replace the cap, if necessary.
4. Inspect the carbon brush and spring for wear and replace, if necessary, see Figure 2-5-21.
5. Ensure the carbon brush and spring move freely.

1. Place the cap on the distributor, ensuring the #1 terminal is over the TCI connector and install the three retaining screws.
2. Install the spark plug and coil HT cables to the corresponding terminals on the cap. The firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2 in a clockwise direction.

1. Ensure the battery master switch is off.
2. Remove the distributor cap.
3. Remove the rotor from the distributor shaft.

1. Remove carbon build-up from the rotor arm centre and outer contact.
2. Using an ohmmeter set at Rx1K, measure the resistance between the rotor centre contact and the rotor arm outer contact. The resistance should be approximately 5k ohms.
3. Ensure there is spring tension to the speed limiter, see Figure 2-5-22.

1. Install the rotor ensuring the lug fits in the slot in the distributor shaft. Push the rotor down until it contacts the trigger wheel.
2. Install the distributor cap.

1. Using a non-ferrous feeler gauge, measure the gap between the trigger wheel lugs and stator lugs, see Figure 2-5-15. The gap should be 0.25 mm (0.010 in). If necessary, adjust the gap by bending the trigger wheel or stator lugs. Check all gaps with the trigger wheel in various positions.
2. Disconnect the cable between the distributor and the TCI control unit.
3. Using an ohmmeter set at Rx1K, measure the resistance at the disconnected TCI wire connector plug. If the resistance is not between 0.990 and 1.210k ohms, replace the pickup coil.
4. Install the distributor cap.

1. Ensure the battery master switch is off.
2. Disconnect the HT cables from the spark plugs.
3. Remove the spark plugs.

1. Using a spark plug feeler gauge, gap the new spark plugs. The spark plug gap should be 0.7 to 0.8 mm (.028 to .032 in).
2. Ensure there is a gasket on each spark plug and a rubber “O” ring around the body.
3. Install the spark plugs and torque to 30 N•m (22 ft lb).

1. Ensure the battery master switch is off.
2. Disconnect the HT cables from the four spark plugs.
3. Disconnect the spark plug HT and coil HT cables from the distributor cap.
4. Remove the spark plug HT cables from the cable brackets.
5. Disconnect the coil HT cable from the coil.

1. Test the new cables for continuity and ensure the Bakelite tip at the ends of each cable is not broken.
2. Apply silicone grease to the cable threads and install the coil and spark plug HT cables to the corresponding terminals on the distributor cap but do not tighten.
3. Install the spark plug HT cables to the corresponding spark plugs but do not tighten.
4. Install the spark plug HT cables into the cable brackets.
5. Install the coil HT cable to the coil.
6. Tighten all HT cable connections.

1. Ensure the battery master switch is off.
2. Remove the HT cable from the coil

1. Position the suppressor on the coil mounting bracket nearest the radiator and insert a cap screw through the suppressor and coil brackets.
2. Position the mounting bracket on the fender and install the cap screws.
3. Install the wire #37 to the bottom of the suppressor.
4. Install the HT cable to the top centre of the coil.
5. Install the TCI cable to the #1 (–) terminal of the coil and the suppressor cable to the radiator side #15 (+) terminal.

1. Ensure the battery master switch is off.
2. Remove the four screws from the wire leads on the resistors and remove the wires.
3. Remove the two sheet metal screws from the resistors and bracket and remove the resistors.

1. Place the resistors on the bracket and install the two sheet metal screws.
2. Install the wire leads on the terminals ensuring the jump wire leads are on the top terminals and install the four screws.

1. Ensure the battery master switch is off.

1. Position the TCI unit on the firewall and install the two screws and flat washers.
2. Install the electrical connectors to the correct terminals. Install the cable from the distributor to the right terminal, the cable from the #1 (–) terminal of the coil to the centre terminal and the cable from the wiring harness from the accessory switch to the left terminal.

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. Raise the hood.
3. Drain the cooling system (refer to Section 8).
4. Remove the front bumper (refer to Part 6, Section 2).
5. Remove the following cooling system components:

1. Install a new gasket on the clutch housing and coat liberally with RTV.
2. Ensure the wheels are blocked and the hand brake applied.
3. Attach lifting sling 2024A to the front and rear lifting eyes of the engine, and lift the engine high enough to clear the front engine mounts.
4. Guide the engine into the engine compartment until the clutch plate contacts the transaxle input shaft.
5. Turn the crankshaft pulley securing nut until the splines of the clutch plate and transaxle input shaft will mesh and then push the engine against the clutch housing.
6. Install the three clutch housing cap screws and lock washers at the top of the housing.

1. Remove the vacuum advance line from the carburetor.
2. Remove the brake servo vacuum hose from the intake manifold.
3. Remove the retaining clip from each side of the rubber grommet on the accelerator cable at the cable mounting bracket.
4. Remove the clip from the tip of the accelerator cable at the cam of the throttle linkage.
5. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the cam plate, and pull the cable out of the bracket.
6. Remove the valve cover breather hose.
7. Remove the eight valve cover nuts.
8. Remove the flat washer from both front studs.
9. Remove the accelerator cable support bracket and two spark plug cable brackets and washers from the left side of the valve cover.
10. Remove the plug nut from the middle of the timing belt upper cover and remove the cover.
11. Remove the reinforcement bars from both sides of the valve cover.
12. Remove the valve cover.
13. Remove the gasket from the valve cover.
14. Remove the rubber half seal from the front camshaft bearing cap.
15. Inspect the valve cover studs for damage and replace, if necessary.
16. Remove the valve cover rubber plug at the rear of the cylinder head.

1. Ensure the gasket surface of the cylinder head is clean.
2. Install a new rubber half seal on the front camshaft bearing cap.
3. Install a new rubber plug at the rear of the cylinder head.
4. Install a new valve cover gasket on the cylinder head.

1. Remove the timing belt upper cover and valve cover.

1. Inspect the toes and flats of the camshaft lobes for wear and grooving. Wear and grooves are an indication of engine oil contamination.
2. Inspect the camshaft bearing surfaces for grooves and replace the camshaft, if necessary.

1. Install the bucket-type cam followers and valve adjusting shims and lubricate.
2. Clean and lubricate the camshaft bearing cap surfaces of the cylinder head.
3. Ensure all camshaft lubricating holes in the cylinder head are open.
4. Lubricate the lip of a new seal and install the seal on the front end of the camshaft with the lip facing toward the rear.
5. e. Install the camshaft.
6. Install bearing caps two and four over the corresponding camshaft bearing surfaces. The bearing caps are offset. Ensure the bearing caps are correctly positioned, see Figure 2-6-9.
7. Install flat washers and nuts on bearing caps two and four and tighten each nut a little at a time. Torque to 20 N•m (15 ft lb).

1. Disconnect the choke and accelerator cables from the carburetor.
2. Disconnect the vacuum line and fuel line from the carburetor.
3. Disconnect the electrical wires from the carburetor air/fuel cutoff valve and at the oil pressure and coolant temperature sending units.
4. Drain the coolant (refer to Section 8).
5. Remove the air intake hose from the carburetor and air cleaner assembly and remove the breather hose from the valve cover.
6. Disconnect the inlet fuel line at carburetor.
7. Remove the fuel by-pass reservoir from the right fender panel and move the reservoir and in-line fuel filter out of the way.
8. Remove the six nuts securing the exhaust pipe to the manifold and remove the gasket.
9. Disconnect the HT cables from the spark plugs and remove the two spark plug cable brackets from the valve cover.
10. Loosen the three machine screws from the distributor cap and remove the cap and HT cables. Cover the distributor with a cloth.
11. Disconnect the two heater hoses from the rear of the cylinder head.
12. Disconnect the top radiator hose and the thermostat by-pass hose from the connector on the left side of the cylinder head.
13. Remove the timing belt upper cover.
14. Remove the valve cover.
15. Slacken the tensioner and remove the timing belt.
16. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolt and flat washer and slide the sprocket from the camshaft.
17. Loosen the alternator adjusting arm bolt.
18. Remove the alternator adjusting arm cap screw and swing the bracket away from the cylinder head.
19. Remove the intake manifold and gasket from the cylinder head (refer to Section 2).
20. Remove the exhaust manifold and gaskets from the cylinder head (refer to Section 2).

1. Remove the cover from the engine block. Ensure the sealing surface, pistons and cylinders are clean and apply engine oil to the cylinder walls.
2. Place a new head gasket on the engine block with the word “OBEN” or “TOP” towards the cylinder head.
3. Ensure the sealing surface of the cylinder head is clean and place the head on the engine block.
4. Apply an anti-seize compound to the ten cylinder head bolts to prevent seizure to the aluminium head and install the bolts and flat washers.
5. Tighten the cylinder head bolts following the sequence shown in Figure 2-6-14, and torque the bolts to 30 N•m (22 ft lb).
6. Torque the cylinder head bolts to 58 N•m (43 ft lb) following the sequence described in step e.
7. Torque the cylinder head bolts to 75 N•m (55 ft lb) following the sequence described in step e.
8. After torquing all cylinder head bolts, turn each bolt a further quarter turn following the sequence described in step e. After completing this step, the cylinder head bolts must not be retorqued.
9. Block the three oil return holes in the cylinder head with cloth.
10. Inspect the manifolds for cracks and, using a straight edge, inspect the mounting surfaces for distortion. If necessary, surface grind until flat.
11. Clean around the ports and ensure the mating surfaces are smooth.
12. Install the exhaust manifold and new gaskets, ensuring the gaskets are correctly positioned.
13. Install new brass self-locking nuts and flat washers and torque to 25 N•m (18 ft lb).
14. Install a new gasket and the intake manifold.
15. Install a bolt at each end of the intake manifold to hold the manifold and gasket in place. Install the remaining bolts, ensuring the gasket does not slip. Torque the bolts to 25 N•m (18 ft lb).

1. Remove the timing belt tensioner.
2. Remove the cylinder head.
3. Remove the camshaft.
4. Remove the bucket-type cam followers and adjusting shims and set aside in order.

1. Clean the valves with a wire brush.
2. Using a straight edge and feeler gauge, check the sealing surface of the cylinder head for distortion, see Figure 2-6-18. If the distortion is greater than 0.1 mm, the head must be resurfaced. After resurfacing, the thickness of the head must not be less than 132.55 mm, see Figure 2-6-19.
3. c. Using a dial indicator, measure the rocking play at each valve head. Move each valve stem back and forth in its guide and measure the stem movement, see Figure 2-6-20. The stem tip must be flush with the top of the guide. The maximum allowable rocking play of the intake valve stems is 1.0 mm. The maximum allowable rocking play of the exhaust valve stems is 1.3 mm. If the valve exceeds the allowable free play, install a new valve and measure the free play. If the new valve exceeds the allowable free play, replace the guide.
4. Grind the intake valves, if necessary, to a 45° angle. The intake valves must have a minimum margin of 0.5 mm.

1. Place the spring seats over the corresponding valve stems.
2. Place a plastic sleeve from the seal replacement kit on a valve stem to prevent damage when installing the valve stem seals.

1. Remove the valves from the cylinder head.
2. From the combustion side of the cylinder head, press out the guides using tool 10-206, see Figure 2-6-24.

1. Lubricate new guides with oil and press into the cold cylinder head from the camshaft side ensuring the shoulder of each guide firmly contacts the top of the cylinder head.

1. Place the piston at top dead centre (TDC).
2. Place the vehicle in fourth gear and apply the hand brake.
3. Remove the timing belt upper cover.
4. Remove the valve cover.
5. Remove the camshaft.
6. Lift out the bucket-type cam followers and shims and set aside, in order, so that each bucket and shim will be reinstalled on the same valve assembly.
7. Remove the spark plugs.
8. h. Screw tool 653/3 into the cylinder at the opening for the spark plug and apply a minimum of 600 kPa (87 psi) to the cylinder.
9. Install tool 2036 on the mounting studs of camshaft bearing caps one and five and install four nuts and flat washers, see Figure 2-6-17.
10. Using compressor tool VW 541/1, compress the valve springs of each valve assembly, remove both halves of each valve keeper from each valve stem and set aside in order.
11. Remove the valve spring retainer (6), the inner spring (4), outer spring (5), stem seal (3) and spring seat (2) from each valve stem (1) and set aside in order, see Figure 2-6-16. Use valve seal remover KD2899 to remove the seal.

1. Place the spring seats over the corresponding valve stems.
2. Place a plastic sleeve from the seal replacement kit on a valve stem to prevent damage when installing the valve stem seals:
3. Insert the spring end of a seal into valve seal installer tool 10-204, see Figure 2-6-23, and apply a coat of oil to the valve stem.
4. Push the seal onto the valve stem and remove the plastic sleeve from the valve stem.
5. Install seals on all valve stems following steps b., c. and d. and install the inner and outer springs and retainers on the corresponding valve stems.
6. Using compressor tool VW541/1, compress each set of valve springs and place both halves of each valve keeper in the corresponding keeper groove on each valve stem.
7. Remove bar tool 2036.
8. Tap the top. of each valve assembly to ensure the keepers are securely in place.
9. Remove tool 653/3.
10. Apply a coat of oil to the bucket-type cam followers and place each bucket and shim on the corresponding valve assembly.
11. Install the camshaft. Measure the tappet clearance for all valves and adjust as required (refer to Section 8).
12. Install the valve cover.
13. Install the timing belt upper cover.
14. Install the spark plugs and cables (refer to Section 5).

1. Remove the timing belt upper and lower covers.
2. Remove the locking nut and spring washer from the tensioner mounting stud.
3. Remove the timing belt.
4. Slide the tensioner from the mounting stud.

1. Install the tensioner on the mounting stud, ensuring the side of the tensioner with the adjusting nut is away from the cylinder head. Loosely install the spring washer and locking nut on the mounting stud.
2. Install the timing belt and time the engine (refer to Section 8).

1. Place the #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke (refer to Section 5).
2. Remove the timing belt upper cover.
3. Loosen the locking nut for the timing belt tensioner and turn the tensioner until the tension of the belt is released.
4. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket, ensuring the sprocket does not turn during the removal of the belt.
5. Remove the bolt and flat washer from the camshaft sprocket and remove the sprocket and woodruff key.
6. Using a suitable tool, remove the seal from the #1 bearing cap.

1. Inspect the seal mating surface of the camshaft for damage and replace the camshaft, if necessary.
2. Lubricate the lips and outer surface of the new seal with oil.
3. Place the seal on the end of the camshaft, ensuring the lips of the seal face inward and press the seal into the #1 bearing cap with tool 10-203 until the seal is fully home.
4. Install the woodruff key and sprocket on the end of the camshaft, ensuring the side of the sprocket with the timing mark is nearest the valve cover.
5. Install the retaining nut and flat washer for the sprocket and torque to 80 N•m (59 ft lb).
6. Place the timing belt on the sprocket, ensuring the sprocket does not turn during the installation of the belt.
7. Turn the tensioner clockwise until the timing belt has the correct tension and torque the locking nut to 45 N•m (33 ft lb).
8. Check the timing marks and reset the timing, if required (refer to Section 8).

1. Place #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke (refer to Section 5).
2. Remove the timing belt upper cover.
3. Remove the crankshaft pulley (refer to Section 6) and the coolant pump pulley (refer to Section 3).
4. Remove the drive belts (refer to Section 3).
5. Remove the timing belt lower cover.
6. Remove the timing belt.
7. Remove the cap screw and flat washer from the intermediate shaft sprocket, slide the sprocket from the shaft and remove the woodruff key.

1. Grease the new seal and start the seal into the flange, ensuring the lips of the seal face toward the engine block.

1. Remove the drive belts.
2. Remove the coolant pump and crankshaft pulleys.
3. Remove the timing belt upper and lower covers.
4. Remove the timing belt.
5. Place the transmission in gear and apply the hand brake.
6. Remove the crankshaft sprocket bolt and flat washer and pull the sprocket from the crankshaft. If necessary, use a universal puller or pry bar.

1. Apply oil to the lip and outer edge of the new seal and place the seal on the end of the crankshaft, ensuring the lips of the seal face toward the sealing flange.

1. Remove the engine protection plate.
2. Remove the alternator (refer to Section 5).
3. Remove the timing belt upper cover.
4. Remove the nut and flat washer that secure the timing belt lower cover to the coolant pump.
5. Remove the coolant pump and crankshaft pulleys.
6. Remove the socket head screw, located above the crankshaft timing sprocket, from the timing belt lower cover.
7. Remove the cap screw and washer, located to the right of the crankshaft timing gear, from the timing belt lower cover.
8. Pull the lower cover forward and remove the nut from the stud located near the top of the alternator front bracket.
9. Remove the cap screw and washer near the bottom of the front bracket.
10. Remove the cap screw and washer from the top of the rear timing plate.
11. Pull the rear timing plate clear and remove the front bracket.
12. Remove the two cap screws and washers from the rear alternator bracket and remove the bracket.

1. Install the alternator rear bracket with two cap screws and lock washers and torque to 20 N•m (15 ft lb).
2. Install the front bracket with the cap screw and washer that secure the cover and bracket to the block. Torque the cap screw to 20 N•m (15 ft lb).
3. Install the nut on the stud for the alternator bracket and timing belt rear plate and torque to 20 N•m (15 ft lb).
4. Install the cap screw and washer at the top of the plate and torque to 10 N•m (7 ft lb).
5. Install, to the right of the crankshaft timing gear, the cap screw and washer for the timing belt lower cover.
6. Install, above the crankshaft sprocket, the socket head cap screw for the lower cover and torque to 10 N•m (7 ft lb).
7. Install the coolant pump and crankshaft pulleys.
8. Install the nut and washer for the lower cover at the coolant pump and torque to 10 N•m (7 ft lb).
9. Install the timing belt upper cover.
10. Install the alternator (refer to Section 5) and drive belts.
11. Torque the coolant pump and crankshaft pulley cap screws to 20 N•m (15 ft lb).
12. Install the engine protection plate.

1. Remove the alternator brackets.
2. Press the bushings from the brackets.

1. Press new bushings into the brackets.
2. Install the alternator brackets.

1. Attach tool 2024A to the front lifting eye of the engine.
2. Remove the self-locking nut and flat washer from each engine mounting bolt.
3. Lift the engine so that the lifting sling supports the weight of the engine.
4. Remove the three cap screws and washers from the left engine mounting bracket and remove the bracket.
5. Remove the four cap screws and washers from the right engine mounting bracket and remove the bracket.

1. Install the right engine mounting bracket, with four cap screws and washers and torque to 25 N•m (18 ft lb).
2. Install the left engine mounting bracket, with three cap screws and washers and torque to 55 N•m (41 ft lb).
3. Lower the engine.
4. Install a new self-locking nut and flat washer on each engine mounting bolt and torque to 45 N•m (33 ft lb).
5. Remove tool 2024A.

1. Remove the engine.
2. Remove the clutch (refer to Part 3, Section 1).

1. Inspect the flywheel clutch surface for cracks and burns and replace, if necessary.
2. Inspect the ring gear for broken and chipped teeth and replace the ring gear, if necessary.
3. Inspect the crankshaft rear seal for leaks and the pilot bearing for wear and replace, if necessary.

1. Place the flywheel on the end of the crankshaft. Install the six flywheel cap screws and apply Loctite 271 to each cap screw.
2. Install tool 10-201 and torque the flywheel cap screws to 75 N•m (55 ft lb).
3. Install the clutch (refer to Part 3, Section 1).
4. Install the engine.

1. Ensure the flywheel surface and the inner circumference of the ring gear are free of dirt and rough spots.
2. Place the flywheel on a wood surface with the clutch surface facing down.

1. Remove the engine.
2. Remove the clutch and pressure plate (refer to Part 3, Section 1).

1. Place a new pilot bearing on the end of the bearing installer tool VW207C and install the bearing, see Figure 2-6-35. If the engine is mounted on a stand, tap in the bearing using a plastic hammer.
2. Drive the bearing into the crankshaft and remove the bearing installer tool. The bearing should be 1.5 mm inside the end of the crankshaft.
3. Install the clutch and pressure plate (refer to Part 3, Section 1).
4. Install the engine.

1. Remove the engine.
2. Remove the clutch (refer to Part 3, Section 1).
3. Remove the flywheel.
4. Using pry lever 10-221, remove the oil seal from the crankshaft, see Figure 2-6-36.

1. Coat the lips of the new seal with grease or oil.
2. Using seal installer tool 2003/2A, start the seal into the crankshaft, ensuring the lips of the seal face toward the crankshaft, see Figure 2-6-37. Tap the tool lightly to ensure the seal will enter the crankshaft in a straight line.
3. Using installation tool 2003/1 and two flywheel cap screws, press the seal fully home, see Figure 2-6-38, and remove the tool and cap screws.
4. Install the flywheel.
5. Install the clutch (refer to Part 3, Section 1).
6. Install the engine.

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. Drain the cooling system (refer to Section 8).
3. Remove/disconnect the following cooling system components:

1. Ensure the wheels are blocked and the hand brake applied.
2. Place an upper support pad and washer on both engine mounts.
3. Clean and inspect the area of the vehicle where the power pack will be installed.
4. Attach a lifting sling 2024A to the front and rear lifting eyes of the engine and raise the Power pack.

1. Ensure the engine temperature is a minimum of 60°C (140°F).
2. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
3. Start the engine and adjust the idle speed between 900 and 1,000 rpm.
4. Stop the engine and remove the carburetor air intake hose from the carburetor.
5. Pull the choke cable fully out and check the choke valve operating lever. The lever should be against the stop. Adjust the cable, if necessary.

1. Remove the carburetor air intake hose from the carburetor.
2. Start and run the engine at idling speed.
3. Pull the choke cable fully out and close the choke valve by hand. If the choke valve can be easily closed to a gap of about 4 mm before resistance is felt, the pulldown unit is operating correctly. If the choke valve can be completely closed without resistance, the pulldown diaphragm is split or there is a leak in the vacuum system.
4. Install the carburetor air intake hose to the carburetor.

1. Pull the choke cable fully out.
2. Loosen the choke cover screws and rotate the cover counter-clockwise until the choke valve is closed and tighten the cover screws.
3. Using a screwdriver, push the pulldown operating rod in the direction of the pulldown unit until the rod contacts the stop and, using a feeler gauge, measure the choke valve gap on the enrichment tube side of the valve, see Figure 2-8-2. The valve gap should be between 3.85 and 4.15 mm.
4. If necessary, adjust the choke valve gap. Turn the adjusting screw on the pulldown unit clockwise to decrease the gap and counter-clockwise to increase the gap, see Figure 2-8-3.
5. Realign the mark on the choke cover with the mark on the choke body, see Figure 2-8-4 and tighten the cover screws.

1. Disconnect the electrical wire from the air/fuel cutoff valve terminal.
2. Turn the accessory switch “ON”.
3. Touch the wire to the air/fuel cutoff valve terminal several times. A clicking sound should be heard if the valve is operating correctly.
4. Turn the accessory switch “OFF”.

1. Ensure the exhaust system does not leak.
2. Ensure the engine is at normal operating temperature.
3. Ensure all electrical accessories are turned off.
4. Remove the crankcase breather hose from the valve cover and plug the hose.
5. Ensure the choke is fully open.
6. Ensure the idle speed is set between 900 and 1,000 rpm.
7. Ensure the ignition timing is properly set.
8. Ensure the cooling fans are not operating.
9. Connect the exhaust analyzer following the manufacturer's instructions.
10. Start the engine and allow it to run for five minutes.
11. Note the meter reading of the carbon monoxide content and adjust the carburetor CO needle valve until a reading of 0.5 to 1.5% volume of carbon monoxide is obtained.
12. Install the plug over the CO screw.
13. Unplug the crankcase breather hose and install the hose to the valve cover.
14. Note that an increase in CO level after connecting the crankcase breather hose results from fuel enrichment in the crankcase due to oil dilution. If necessary, change the oil to reduce the CO level.
15. Disconnect the exhaust analyzer.

1. Remove the engine protection plate.
2. Remove the radiator protection plate.
3. Remove the expansion reservoir cap.

1. Install the thermostat in the coolant pump housing and install the gasket.
2. Install the housing over the end of the thermostat. Install two cap screws through the housing and into the coolant pump housing. Torque the cap screws to 10 N•m (7 ft lb).
3. Install the lower radiator hose to the bottom of the thermostat housing.
4. Loosen the heater core bleeder valve.
5. Fill the cooling system until the coolant level in the expansion reservoir reaches the arrow (minimum level) marked on the reservoir.
6. Start the engine and allow it to run until the coolant fills the cooling system.
7. Close the heater core bleeder valve when coolant starts to drip from the valve.
8. Turn the engine off and add more coolant, if required.
9. Install the expansion reservoir cap.
10. Inspect the cooling system for leaks.
11. Install the radiator protection plate.
12. Install the engine protection plate.

1. Remove the cap and inspect the gasket. Replace the gasket, if necessary.
2. Screw the cap onto pressure tester adapter VW 1274/1A and attach the adapter to the pressure tester VW 1274, see Figure 2-8-5.
3. Pump up the pressure and note the pressure when the relief valve opens. If the relief valve does not open between 120 and 135 kPa (17.4 to 19.6 psi), replace the cap.

1. Screw the pressure tester adapter VW 1274/1A onto the expansion reservoir, see Figure 2-8-6.
2. Attach the tester to the adapter and pump up the pressure to 100 kPa (14.5 psi). If the pressure drops off, check for leaks in the system.

1. Ensure the batteries are warm and in a good state of charge.
2. Ensure the drive belts are properly adjusted.
3. Ensure all positive and negative connections between the alternator and batteries are clean and tight.

1. Run the engine at a fast idle and measure the voltage across the batteries. The voltage should be between 27.9 and 28.1. If the voltage is not within the specified limits, adjust alternator output voltage.
2. Run the engine with all the accessories on or connect a carbon pile across the batteries (do not exceed the alternator output rating). The battery voltage should be a minimum of 27 volts. If battery voltage is less than 27 volts, perform the alternator full-fielded output voltage test. Complete the alternator tests following the order presented in Figure 2-8-7. If the alternator passes the tests described in steps a. and b., no further testing of the alternator is required.

1. Start the engine and run between 1,000 and 1,200 rpm.
2. Set the meter to the 60 DC volt scale.
3. Connect the meter positive lead to the positive terminal of the right battery and the negative lead to the negative terminal of the left battery.
4. Note the meter reading. If the meter reading is between 27.9 and 28.1 volts, the charging system is serviceable. If the meter reading is not within this range, the alternator output voltage requires adjustment.

1. Connect a jumper wire to the alternator negative terminal.

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. Disconnect the diode trio output lead and the #1 wire from the regulator, see Figure 2-8-10.
3. Remove the three screws, flat and lock washers from the diode trio and remove the diode trio from the alternator.
4. Set the meter to the RX1 ohms scale and zero the meter.
5. Connect the meter negative probe to the output lead of the diode trio and touch the positive probe to each of the three diode trio terminal pads, see Figure 2-8-11. If there is needle deflection for any one of the terminal pads, replace the diode trio.
6. Connect the meter positive lead to the output lead of the diode trio and touch the negative lead to each of the three terminal pads. The needle deflection of the meter should be similar for all three terminal pads. If there is not similar needle deflection for all three pads, replace the diode trio. If the alternator and diode trio are operating correctly, test the alternator voltage regulator.

1. Remove the valve cover (refer to Section 6).
2. Turn the crankshaft so that the two camshaft lobes for one of the cylinders are facing up at similar angles.
3. Using a feeler gauge measure the clearance between each camshaft lobe and corresponding shim for the intake and exhaust valves of the cylinder.

1. Remove the plug from the flywheel housing and turn the crankshaft pulley until the timing mark on the flywheel is in line with the timing indicator on the flywheel housing, see Figure 2-5-16.
2. Remove the oil filler cap from the valve cover and ensure that both camshaft lobes of the #1 cylinder face upwards at similar angles, see Figure 2-5-17. If the lobes do not face upwards, rotate the crankshaft one complete revolution.

1. Start and warm up the engine to about 40°C (104°F).
2. Remove the spark plugs (refer to Section 5).
3. Disconnect the coil HT cable from the distributor cap and connect the cable to a good ground.
4. Install the compression gauge in a spark plug opening.
5. Hold the throttle valve fully open and crank the engine until the needle of the compression gauge stops rising and record the reading.
6. Repeat steps d. and e. for the remaining three cylinders. The cylinder compression for a new engine should be 900 to 1,200 kPa (130 to 174 psi). The minimum allowable cylinder compression is 700 kPa (101 psi). The maximum allowable difference between cylinders is 300 kPa (43 psi).
7. Connect the coil high tension cable to the distributor cap.
8. Install the spark plugs (refer to Section 5).

1. Ballast resistor to coil cable test.
2. Coil primary and secondary resistance test.
3. Coil voltage test.
4. Distributor pick-up coil test.
5. Distributor pick-up coil dynamic test.
6. Primary circuit switching test.
7. Ballast resistor test.

1. Do not touch the high tension cables when the engine is running or being cranked by the starter.
2. Only disconnect high tension cables when the accessory switch is “OFF”.
3. Only attach and detach test equipment when accessory switch is “OFF”.
4. Do not connect a suppression condensor or test lamp to coil terminal #1 (—).
5. Do not connect test equipment or a timing light with 24 Vdc supply to coil terminal #15.
6. After disconnecting the coil high tension cable from the distributor, always connect the cable directly to ground. If not connected to ground, the engine must not be cranked at starter speed (e.g., when doing compression test or TCI control unit test).
7. Do not use a quick charger as a starting aid.
8. Do not replace the coil with a standard coil.
9. When welding with electric arc or spot welding, the batteries must be disconnected (negative and positive).
10. Do not spray water on the engine when the accessory switch is “ON”.

1. Disconnect the cable from coil terminal #15 (+).
2. Set the multimeter to the 60 Vdc scale.
3. Attach the positive meter lead to the cable and the negative lead to a good engine ground.
4. Turn the accessory switch “ON” and note the meter reading. The reading should be battery voltage. If no reading, or a low reading is obtained, check the suppressor, ballast resistors, wiring, accessory switch and battery connections. Repair or replace components as required.

1. Disconnect the cable from coil terminal #1 (—).
2. Set the multimeter to the RX1 ohms scale.
3. Install adapters Z401139WE in terminals #1 and #15.
4. Connect the meter leads to coil terminals #1 and #15 and check the meter reading. The reading should be 0.81 to 0.99 ohms. If the reading is not within the specified limits, replace the coil.
5. Set the meter to the RX1K ohm scale.
6. Connect the meter leads to coil terminals #1 and #4 and check the meter reading. The meter reading should be 6,210 to 7,590 ohms. If the meter reading is not within the specified limits, replace the coil.

1. Install adapters Z401139WE on coil terminals #1 and #15 and connect the cables to the terminals.
2. Connect the HT cable to coil terminal #4.
3. Set the multimeter to the 60 Vdc scale.
4. Connect the positive meter lead to the adapter on the #1 terminal and the negative lead to a good ground.
5. Turn the accessory switch “ON” and note the meter reading. The reading should be about two volts for a few seconds and then stabilize at battery voltage.
6. Turn the accessory switch “OFF” and connect the meter positive lead to the adapter on coil terminal #15.
7. Turn the accessory switch “ON” and note the meter reading. The meter reading should be about seven volts for a few seconds and then stabilize at battery voltage. If the readings are not within the specifications, disconnect the cables and ensure the end connectors are clean and the cables in good condition.
8. Connect the cables to the coil terminals and do the coil voltage test again.
9. Replace the TCI unit if the readings are not within the specified limits.

1. Disconnect the distributor lead from the TCI unit and ensure the connection is clean.
2. Set the multimeter to the RX1K ohm scale.
3. Connect the meter leads to terminals A and B of the cable and note the meter reading. If necessary, insert pieces of clean wire into the terminals and connect the meter leads to the terminals. The meter reading should be 0.99 to 1.21K ohms.
4. Connect meter leads to terminals B and C, and A and C. Note the meter reading. There should be no reading.
5. If the meter readings are not within the specifications, remove the cable and check continuity: A to A, B to B, and C to the cable casing. If the continuity check is satisfactory, replace the pickup coil on the distributor.

1. Set the multimeter to the RX1 scale.
2. Disconnect the TCI cable from the distributor and connect the meter leads to terminals A and B of the cable.
3. Crank the engine and observe the meter reading. The meter needle should oscillate. Replace the pickup coil if the needle does not oscillate.

1. Install adapter Z401139WE on coil terminal #1 and connect the cable.
2. Disconnect coil HT cable at the distributor and connect it to ground.
3. Set the multimeter to the 60 Vdc scale.
4. Attach the meter positive lead to the adapter on the #1 terminal and attach the negative lead to ground.
5. Turn “ON” the accessory switch, crank the engine and note the meter reading. When the engine is cranked, the needle should oscillate. Replace the TCI unit, if necessary.

1. Disconnect wires #37A and #37B from the resistor assembly.
2. Using an ohmeter set on the Rx1 scale, test the resistance of each resistor. The reading for each should between 1.5 and 2.3 ohms.
3. Replace both resistors if one is defective.

1. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature.
2. Turn “OFF” the accessory switch and attach a tachometer and timing light. Clamp the induction pickup of the timing light over special cable Z401138WE, which is connected between the distributor and spark plug lead for the #1 cylinder.
3. Remove the timing plug from the flywheel housing.

1. Complete ignition timing.
2. Set the engine at approximately 1,500 rpm.
3. Disconnect the vacuum advance hose from the front of the unit. The engine rpm should decrease.
4. Install the vacuum advance hose on the unit.
5. Set the engine at idle speed.
6. Disconnect the vacuum retard hose from the rear of the unit. Engine rpm should increase.
7. Install the vacuum retard hose on the unit.